Patmos the northernmost island of the twelve islands of the Aegean Sea. The island is the seat of the Patriarchal Exarchate of Patmos. Τhe Monastery of Saint John dominates the island and the island has a long religious history which is situated on the top of a hill above Chora, the capital town, the monastery is protected by walls, which make it look like a fortress. There are many other monasteries scattered around the island, the spiritual character of Patmos is very strong. Another popular monument is the so-called Cave of Apocalypse, where, according to tradition, Apostle John was inspired to write the Book of Revelation. Chora village is the island’s capital where you’ll find many hotels, cafes, restaurants and taverns, where you can taste the local delicacies. Skala village is, where the island’s port, a busy and touristy village. The best organized beaches, such as Agriolivado and Livadi Geranou, are located on the northern side of the island.

Skála is Patmos’ port and biggest village, with most of the official population of 3200. It only dates from the 1820s, when the Aegean was effectively cleared of pirates, and can’t really compare to other island capitals like Mýkonos or Parikia in allure, but since it has most of the local lodging, you may well end up staying here or in the immediate environs. If the trippers strolling the quay or browsing the up-market boutiques get too much, head west towards rocky Hokhlakas cove for the best sunsets around. For a better beach, head west from the excursion boat quay to a nice patch of sand – called Theologos – beyond the Kynops buoy. Further along the bay, at Netia district, wooden kaïkia are still built or repaired in the traditional way at photogenic boatyards.

More than half the island, whose map outline resembles a seahorse facing east, lies north of Skala. Here you’ll find just two other hamlets (Kambos, and Kambi beyond), plus the majority of Patmos’ famous beaches. The best ones face east, or south; west-facing bays are generally unusable owing to the prevailing wind and washed-up debris. All are accessible from side roads or rough paths off the main road. Hiking on Patmos is generally not rewarding; there’s been too much villa-building and bulldozing, though a few decent trail-walks – such as one from Lambi to Livadi Kalogiron – have recently been waymarked and their starts signposted.

The next bay up from Skala harbour, Meloi, is handy and attractive, with tamarisks behind a narrow belt of sand, good snorkelling, a decent campsite and a competent lunchtime taverna, Stefanos. Agriolivado (aka Agriolivadi), next up, is bigger, with several sunbed/kayaking concessions and a choice of tavernas: fish specialists Glaros on the southerly hillside, and another at mid-beach. Kambos beach, downhill from the eponymous hamlet, is somewhat blighted by the road backing the sand, though with its two tavernas (none worth singling out) and watersports facilities, it’s popular with Greek families.

East of Kambos, along the “snout” of the “seahorse”, are still more, quieter coves. Vayia (pebbles, coarse sand) has a snack bar, while the nudist, double bay of Liginou (path access only) has a seaonal kantina shack. Long, sand-and-gravel Livadhi Yeranou (aka Livadi Dellapothitou) offers extensive shade from tamarisks and discreet naturism at the far end, plus a very good, inexpensive cult taverna at road’s end, doing simple seafood dishes, chops, keftedhes, horta and salads. Just offshore lies the small islet of Agios Georgios, which you can easily swim out to, with a little beach to rest up on before the lap back.

Livadi Kalogiron, should you walk or scooter there, has a stony, wave-battered beach but a very attractive monastery, set amongst its vegetable gardens just inland. Lefkes cove, west of Kámbos, is a bit sandier but just as exposed. The valley leading to it was the focus of a woo-woo cult founded by a Greek woman and her British partner during the late 1970s; the monastic monks sent them all packing in 1982.

Where to head next?

Keep exploring the best of Greece! After Patmos, the top destinations to visit are Kos, and Kalymnos.