Anafi is a Cycladic island east of Santorini in the Aegean Sea. According to mythology, it is the island where the Argonauts were saved from a storm while they were praying to the god Apollo for help and after they found themselves on the island they built an altar in his honor. You reach the monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa by following the path after the monastery of Zoodochos Pigi – a 1 hour and 30 minute journey through a rough mountainous landscape. for swimming go to the southern coasts eg Klesidi, Flamourou, the western coasts such as Vagia, Prasa and the northern coasts such as Drepano. Chora is spread out on a hill with a wonderful view, you can shop for local thyme honey and try the traditional sweets and seafood dishes that will remain unforgettable.

Disregarding the negligible port settlement of Ayios Nikolaos, hilltop Hora – reached by a winding 4-kilometre road, or a steeper but shorter path – is the only significant habitation, home to most accommodation and tavernas. The south-facing village is roughly egg-shaped in layout, looking out to sea – not quite all the way to Crete, but almost – and the same vaulted, earthquake resistant architecture as on neighbouring Santorini. The prehistoric volcanic eruption there has coated Anafi’s basic granite/limestone core with a considerable layer of pumice and other volcanic debris.

The upper trail system starts just east of Hora, prominently signposted with accurate elapsed times. The little irrigated farms along here on the south coastal plain contrast sharply with the harshness of Anafi’s upper slopes.

Zoodohou Pigis monastery (open 11am–1pm & 4–6pm, until 7pm in summer) is among the oldest in the Cyclades – a tenth-century AD foundation is claimed. But its predecessor on the site, an Apollo temple perhaps founded by the grateful Argonauts, is far older, and extensive stretches of its masonry are incorporated into the monastery walls. Fetching frescoes along the entry passageway have been done since the year 2000. It says ‘1hr 15min’, but it’s actually more like 50 minutes – an hour with pauses. In autumn dense swarms of flies annoy, but clusters of lovely purple and yellow croci on route more than compensate. There is no chance of getting lost, or of falling off the mountain. Up top, besides the expected stunning views over isles and sea, is the stereotypically Cycladic, 18th-century monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa (locked except at the 8 September festival-top photo). It used to be quite a thing for hippie devotees of Apollo to haul sleeping bags up here and watch the sunrise, and for all I know folk still do it. But you’ll need to bring all essentials with you – one of the water cisterns was accessible in 2012, but better not count on that. It takes 45 minutes to descend to Zoodohou Pigis.

Where to head next?

Keep exploring the best of Greece! After Anafi, the top destinations to visit are Santorini, Ios, and Amorgos.