Amorgos is a Cycladic island in the Aegean Sea. Ιt got its name from the amorgis plant that is used to make tunics. Τhe island has many paths that connect settlements with a unique landscape ideal for hiking. The town of Amorgos is one of the most picturesque capitals of the Cyclades with old churches, narrow streets, alleys, taverns and cafes. Τhe main port and port of Chora, the picturesque Katapola stretches around the deep bay of the same name, beautiful white houses, traditional cafes, taverns and restaurants give a special color to the settlement. sailing boats, fishing boats and excursion boats are moored at the port, which take vacationers to the geotic beaches of Martezi and Plakes. Ormos Aigialis is a holiday settlement of Amorgos, it is one of the two ports of the island.

Katápola has functional nearby beaches and most of the accommodation in the southwest, but little beauty to lose – especially as it’s the one area where second-home real estate is beginning to proliferate. Proximity to Hora and several marked paths (read on for more on that) are the main strong points.

Hora, 7km uphill by road (or a more enjoyable hour’s walk along marked trail #2, “Photodotis”) is another kettle of fish: an exquisite Cycladic village of arched passageways, bulbous church domes, ancient stelae worked into modern housefronts, a serpentining high street, stepped platíes with trendy cafés, and the constant moan of the wind in fanned-out power cables. Everything is wrapped around a strategic rock plug, fortified by the Venetians and doubtless by earlier occupiers.

Some 20 minutes’ walk beyond is the island’s top attraction: the cliffside monastery of Hozoviotissa (8am–1pm & 5–7pm), clinging to the palisade 300m above the Aegean like a “chest of drawers” (so said French explorer Pitton de Tournefort) since establishment under Emperor Alexios Komnenos in 1088. Le Corbusier was also much impressed on his early-20th-century visit, no doubt by the enormously long entrance stairway hewn through the rock, and the tiny katholikon constrained by the same formation. Although built for 30 monks, the monastery is today home to just 3 – including the friendly abbot Spyridon; one of them (or a lay worker) greets pilgrims with the customary loukoúmi and shot of rakí psiméni (Amorgian hootch heated with honey and spices). From the terraces you can easily glimpse Astpálea and Anáfi to the southeast and southwest respectively. The ground-floor cellar has a worthwhile, 2008-inaugurated ecclesiastical museum, but opening hours are erratic. The main annual festival is 21 November (Isodia tis Theotokou/Presentation of the Virgin), which people from across the Cyclades (and the large Amorgian community in Athens) make an effort to attend despite often threatening weather.

The only other Orthodox monument in the southwest with remotely comparable prestige is the little oasis-monastery of Ágios Georgios Valsamítis (usually open), about 3km southwest of Hora; a prominent but un-waymarked trail beginning south of the village allows you to avoid most of the road there (but beware en route grazing cows belonging to Hora’s butcher – they are unpredictable, and one attempted to gore me). The monastery itself is built on the site of a water-oracle, used since ancient times; James Theodore Bent, after an 1884 visit, noted that water was collected in a tumbler and the petitioner’s fortunes interpreted according to the behaviour of the “floaters” visible therein. The ever-tolerant Orthodox Church cemented over the collecting basin in the 1960s to stop such “pagan” practices. Fortunately you can still see the water of the agíasma in the narthex, as well as some fine frescoes – both in the baldachin over the ex-oracle, and the masonry piers before the ieron.

Egiáli has a long beach, great sunsets and good tavernas; my picks among these are To Limani tis Kyra Katinas, one lane in from the jetty, an excellent all-rounder with fish, good bulk wine and several dishes of the day, and Hondros behind mid-beach, with heartier fare, a lively music bar and all-year operation, with an open fire in the winter.

If the main beach doesn’t suit, a trail leads north, then west, 10 minutes to superior Levrosos (with rooms to rent behind), continuing another 10 minutes to Psilí Ámmos, which catches late afternoon sun and seems to be clothing-optional. Still not enough solitude? A rougher path carries on to definitely naturist Hokhlakás, 45 minutes in total from the port.

Plenty of walks start from Egiáli; the one everbody seems to do, trail #4 “Melanía”, makes an easy, 2.5-hour loop from Egiáli via Langáda village, the tiny pastoral hamlet of Stroúmbos, Astrátios chapel built amidst the ruins of Classical fortifications, and Tholária village.

Langáda, with 220 inhabitants, is the “capital” of the northeast – but with no particular sights other than Iamata, the essential-oil distillery and herbal-infusions centre run by Vangelis Vassalos. The better of two tavernas is Nikos, with popular terrace seating under the wisteria, though it’s on the expensive side.

Stroúmbos’ eight houses have been completely bought up and restored by foreigners; its signature is the little chapel of Aď-Nikítas at the outskirts, almost hidden by a pine tree. The marked trail takes a longer course via Drý oasis, with its remnant of island forest that the goats haven’t eaten, and fairly unintersting Epanohorianí monastery; the shortcut via Patéla passes one of Amorgos’ many springs, this one issuing from a deep man-made grotto, possibly Roman-era judging from the masonry.

Tholária is even more atmospheric than Langáda, though rather windy owing to its setting atop a pass. In the undercroft of Ágii Anárgyri church is an excellent ecclesiastical museum (open on demand) of unusual icons and icon-screen pieces rescued from country chapels; the long arcade beyond Ágii Anárgyri, roofed with fídes (cured juniper trunks), is much photographed. Tholária is lucky to have three serviceable tavernas: Iy Kali Kardia; To Santouraki; and To Panorama, run by the inimitable Niko Theologitis, acknowledged as the island’s best composer of mantinádes (rhyming couplets).

From Tholária a clear, signposted cobble-path heads steeply down to Mikrí Vlyhádha inlet – go for the scenery as much as for the swim. Trail #4 returns to the north end of Egiáli bay, passing another elaborate fountain at Léfkes.

Tougher hikers can return to Langáda the next day and embark on trail #5, “Pan”, which climbs sharply through the maquis for 45 minutes to Theologos monastery (usually open), a 15th-century architectural gem with an arcaded, whitewashed interior, carved marble icon screen, ancient colum-capitals supported the altar, and a fine apsidal fresco of St Paul. It’s as much time again, largely along a spectacular corniche route skirting the base of Mt Kríkellos (821m), the island’s summit, to somewhat anticlimactic Stavros chapel. Probably not a walk to do alone or in high summer, as there’s no water or shade en route and nobody but goats for help.

Be sure to try the local Mekila Amorgion, a distillate of 100% wild fruit of the prickly pear cactus that grows in Amorgos. Amorgion is the first company in Greece to create Amorgion rakomelo and psimeni raki, back in 2003. It was awarded three patents and turned rakomelo into a trend both in Greece and abroad. Five years ago, the company built its second factory in Amorgos, a distillery/liquor company/winery. It is there that organic wines, Mekila, prickly pear honey, organic raki and a quite distinct ouzo are produced. Visitors can take guided tours, learn how our liquors and wines are made and try all of the products (liquors, wines, loukoumia, pastelia). The factory is on the Katapola-Chora road.