- DESTINATION Greece
Spetses
A cosmopolitan island at the entrance of the Argolic Gulf, Spetses is one of the most important tourist destinations in the country, a magnet for numerous vacationers and lovers of sea excursions.

A cosmopolitan island at the entrance of the Argolic Gulf, Spetses is one of the most important tourist destinations in the country, a magnet for numerous vacationers and lovers of sea excursions. Spread over the eastern part of the island, with a lot of tourist traffic and remarkable cultural activity. The famous Dapia at the port, imposing stately mansions and traditional houses, flower-strewn courtyards and elaborately cobbled, beautiful churches adorn the capital. Among its beautiful narrows, the mansion of Bouboulina, which functions as a museum, but also the mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis, which hosts the Spetses museum. In the most romantic corner of Spetses, in the Old Port with the carnages, speedboats and sailing boats are moored. The ride in the picturesque carriages is a unique experience. Excursion boats connect the port of Dapia with the beaches of the island. Holiday settlement in the western part of the island, with the church of the same name and a nearby beach. Following a path, you reach the cave of Bekiris, shelter of the fighters of 1821. You can buy ceramics, decorative wooden vessels, pastries and famous macaroons. You can try local delicacies such as grilled fish, kakavia, seafood fish “ala spetsiota” (fish baked with tomato, oil and garlic), almonds and other homemade sweets.
Closest to town is Agia Marina, which faces the Niarchos family’s island of Spetsopoula, acquired by papa Stavros after his archrival Ari Onassis bought Skorpios in the Ionian. The beach here is a bit stony but I love it in the morning before the wind chops its glassy surface into waves. Until eleven, it’s practically empty except for the oldsters enjoying their daily gossip as they tread water in the shallows with their hats on. If you’re feeling flush, have a drink or lunch at Paradisos behind the beach. Otherwise, Tzortzis on the right offers the same view for much less (and a less exciting but adequate menu).
Heading round the island – by bus, kaiki, or sea taxi if you haven’t rented wheels – omitting the smaller coves, you come to Xilokeriza (once my favorite before the houses were built), Agii Anargyri and Agia Paraskevi. This last had no taverna in our day and we saved it for special occasions – all day picnics and evening lamb roasts. The pines are much diminished since the last fire two-three years ago and the once scarily isolated house above the beach, said to be where the Magus lived, stands exposed and bereft of fantasy. The pines have re-seeded themselves though, so one hopes they will be allowed to grow.
Zogeria, the final biggish bay, faces north. It has always had a taverna and is popular with yachts. Between it and Kounoupitsa/Dapia are a few idyllic coves where pines still reach the water’s edge and cyclamen bloom with the first autumn rains.
For a dip, it’s perfectly okay to swim from any of the town beaches. When feeling lazy, I often go to the sliver of beach below Agios Nikolaos, the monastery overlooking the Old Harbor. If you’re wearing something more respectable than a bathing suit, stop in the courtyard to admire a Spetses trademark – mosaic paving using smooth black and white pebbles. Every old house and some new have them with their own characteristic symbols, but these are open to public view. The monastery itself dates from the 18th century and Napoleon’s brother is alleged to have slept there. It’s definitely worth a look and infinitely more attractive than the unfinished, out of scale monstrosity the Church has seen fit to erect next door. Which sends me into paroxysms of un-Christian rage every time I see it looming above the charming two-story houses in its vicinity.
Where to head next?
Keep exploring the best of Greece! After Spetses, the top destinations to visit are Hydra, Poros, and Porto Heli.