Samos is a Greek island in the eastern Aegean Sea. Samos in ancient times was one of the most important commercial centers. Given that the island sits very close to the Turkish coasts, there are daily ferries to Kusadasi in Turkey. Τhe carmanioli movement started there during the Greek revolution of 1821. Οn the island there are many UNESCO monuments. Samos has many beautiful beaches, such as Tsamadou, Tsabou, Psili Ammos and Agios Konstantinos. According to the ancient Greek mythology, Samos was the home island of goddess Hera. That’s why the locals constructed a large sanctuary, the Heraion, in her honor. The Tunnel of Eupalinus is located close to the Heraion, which was used as the aqueduct in ancient times and it is among the greatest technological achievements of its time.

Vathy is very much the provincial capital and, lacking any beaches, an unlikely resort – most hotels which opened in the boom years have closed down or become apartments. One of King Otto’s Bavarian architects advised the Samians in the 1840s to arrange their drainage in a grid plan, not radially to a single outfall which would be vulnerable to prevailing winds and currents. No prizes for guessing what the locals did – so when the wind is wrong the bay stinks. Some of the older neighbourhoods with their fine Neoclassical mansions clambering up the steep flanks of the bay remind me a bit of Syros, at a stretch. The 18th-century hillside suburb of Ano Vathy is worth the hike up for its dwindling number of old houses, and an excellent evening taverna next to the primary school – Iy Nostimies tis Ouranias. There’s no real reason to stay unless you’re on the morning boat to Turkey, but the one must is the Archeological Museum, with most of the finds from the Heraion archeological site spread over two wings: the small objects collection, with unbeatable Archaic art such as the famous griffin heads for adorning cauldrons, and the statue gallery, its star exhibit a huge kouros, the tallest ever unearthed, nearly complete with his Archaic smile. Have lunch (or even dinner) at Artemis (aka Kopanas) by the old jetty (most ferries have shifted across the bay) – very good seafood and mezedes, and where the locals eat after shopping.

Kokkari is the first substantial spot west of Vathy, and the island’s second busiest resort. Even though I don’t think I’d ever stay here again, I have a sentimental attachment to it as the first place I ended up on Samos back in 1980 – in an old house overlooking the fishing-port bay, closed off by one of two mirror-image headlands. Despite changes in three decades since, it’s still stereotypically postcard-perfect seen from the right angle, and has always been windy (a windsurf school off the west pebble beach takes full advantage). For a romantic meal out on the fishing port, newcomer Vasiliko’s salads and thin crust pizzas can’t be beat, though Tarsanas in a breezy lane back from the sea has been there since the 1970s, with time-warped prices, traditional pizzas, a magirefta of the day and bulk wine that’s great or lousy depending on the year.

The west beach is too exposed unless you’re a board-surfer – everyone else heads for Lemonakia and Tsamadou, where headlands nicely break the swell on all but the most boisterous meltemi days. I prefer Tsamadou because the pebbles are better-shaped, the snorkelling is rewarding, and there’s an established naturist section to the right – also the island’s biggest gay hangout – that catches late afternoon sun.

Tiny Avlakia, just around the corner, is built with its toes in the water and for me is the best spot for a waterside meal on the north coast. There are two tavernas: traditional To Delfini (aka Kyria Alexandra’s), with big portions of fish and horta, and Doña Rosa, where an unlikely Dominicana-Greek duo serve up some of the most refined seafood and vegetarian platters around – though it’s not cheap. At the far end of Avlakia a steep path leads down from a road curve to a secluded nudie cove, next to bigger, vehicle-access Tzabou. Both are very scenic with clean water offshore, but I don’t like the degree to which the Tzaboú snack bar controls all access to the beach (which by law is public from the winter tide-mark down) and locks the car park at dusk. Don’t bother showing up in the meltemi – it’s the most exposed beach on the island.

Just inland, the lush valleys around and below the popular villages of Vourliotes, Manolates and Ambelos escaped major fire damage so walking there is still rewarding. After long neglect, the area’s trail network has been minimally cleared and signed, so you can (for example) walk up from Kokkari to Vourliotes, continue to Manolates, then descend to Agios Konstantinos and a bus back to base. Or leave a scooter in Vourliotes and do a 3-hour loop walk from there to Manolates, Aidonia valley and back to Vourliotes.

These are “balcony” villages – the view north over the straits to Turkey on a clear day is unmissable. Vourliotes with vineyards all around was always the biggest and most important. Some years ago greedy restauranteurs in the central plateia convinced the municipality to cut down the two mulberry trees that gave such wonderful shade, just so they could squeeze in more tables, so I don’t go there anymore. Instead I patronize Iy Pera Vrysi at the entrance to Vourliotes, right next the spring – one of the island’s best. They’re open much of the year, with decent robola wine (nothing to do with Kefallonia robola – this is a blend of red grapes) in bulk and an amazing range of mezedes.

Where to head next?

Keep exploring the best of Greece! After Samos, the top destinations to visit are Ikaria, and Lemnos.